Tool time

     My father was an aircraft mechanic in the Navy during World War II. He worked on a Martin PBM-552 "Mariner" out of Banana River Naval Air Station in Cocoa, Florida.  Part of his personal myth was that he was drafted out of his high school classroom the day after he turned 18, and he didn't finish high school until he returned from his service.  I don't actually believe this because he didn't report for duty until the July after he would have graduated.   That information is on his discharge papers.  It's probably partially true though.  The Navy rep probably showed up at school to draft him after he turned 18 but they let him finish high school.  He wasn't sent to an active combat area because both his brothers were already at the front.  In case you are wondering, the Air Force as a separate branch of the military wasn't established until 1947.  After the war.  His other story from his time as a mechanic was, the navy didn't allow the plane he worked on to fly without him riding along.  This could be true.  It seems like a pretty good  way to insure an 18 year old mechanic learns his job fast and well.  My father was a really good mechanic although he used the GI bill to go to college so he didn't have to spend his life fixing engines.  Except that he did.  My father only ever had one tool box.  It weighed approximately 182.3 lbs.  Every tool he ever owned was tossed into that tool box.  In retrospect, I think the most stunning thing about my father's tools was that he didn't have a single screw driver that wasn't stripped.   I don't know how he used them, but he did.  His tool box was chaos and it weighed more than an average human, but if your car broke down and you called him, he would "toss" the tool box in his car,  go to you, and using those useless screw drivers have your engine humming in no time.  Because of my father,  I spent decades with an old pair of stockings in my glove box.  I don't know if that's still a thing.  My father isn't around anymore so I use AAA.  Anyway, even though his tools appeared to be a crazy mess to almost anyone who ever saw his tool box, he understood it.  He knew exactly what he had and how to use it.  It was his system and it worked for him. 

  

This is the plane my father worked on.  Not this one but this model.

     My grandmother, on the other hand, was a musician and urban farmer.  She was strictly a musician until World War II when she was asked by her country to plant a victory garden.  So she did.  Then she was a musician and an urban farmer.  I think she dedicated herself to learning how to grow food in the same way she had dedicated herself to learning to play music.  She also took care of her tools with the same care she used on her instruments.  By the time I came along, well after the end of the war, my grandmother was growing food on an acre of land in the middle of Denver.  She grew enough food to feed the whole family and each fall was filled with the sound of canning jars popping.  I didn't really taste "store bought" vegetables until I went off to college.  My grandmother had some wonderful quirks.  One of them was that if she sent my father and me out to pick peas in the spring she didn't expect to get any back.  We just ate them as we picked.  The same went for sending me out to pick strawberries in the summer.  She'd send me out with a bowl to gather strawberries to make dessert for supper, and I would return with a bowl with one strawberry in it and my hands and face covered in strawberry juice.   My grandmother would eat the strawberry and then we would make chewy bread, which was my grandmother's version of brownies, for dessert instead.  I now believe sending me out to pick anything was just a ploy to get me out of her hair, but if you have never tasted spring peas fresh off the vine or little jewel type strawberries ripe and warm in the sun, you should definitely put those things on your bucket list.  Those are the food pleasures that no artisanal cafe can even touch.  Anyway, my grandmother was fastidious with her tools and her musical instruments.  Each tool had a place so that she knew exactly where it was and after it was used but before it was put away, it was cleaned.  And just as my father's system worked for him, hers worked for her.

 

This is a Martin flat back mandolin.  My grandmother had one of these and it's what she played most of the time.  She was apparently an exceptional violinist until she met my grandfather who was an exceptionally bad driver.  The family story is that he had a head on collision with a truck while trying to pass a street car while driving his motorcycle with my grandmother in the side car.  He had no injuries which was how it always went for him, but my grandmother was thrown over a wall and ended up with a broken arm that was set in a way that meant she could never play the violin again.  Good musicians meets bad driver.  So she played the mandolin, opened a music school, and learned to grow things. 

     I live somewhere in the middle of these two extremes, but my point is that you need to find your own relationship with your tools.  Once you are comfortable with your tools you will do good work.  This is probably why I keep repeating that I am not a purist.  The work that I do is more important than the specifics of the tools that I do it with.  So as I move forward talking about tools and setting up a shop, keep yourself focused on what you want to do.  There are a lot of means to each end and you need to find the one that works for you.  

     If you are following along with me and building your shop, you now have a massive and sublimely beautiful work table and a stock rack.  Plus a couple of metalworking tools.  You also have less money than you had before and you met your steel yard supply guys.  I really love all my steel guys and I told you last time not to fear them.  They are the best.  The last delivery I got was a week or so ago and it's been really hot here so the steel is really hot on the truck.  I have some beat up work gloves so I put one on to go unload the truck.  The driver just couldn't deal so he reached into the cab and gave me a new pair of work gloves.  He didn't want me to hurt myself.  As he was about to leave he handed me a second pair because he figured I would lose the first pair like he does.  These guys are always so great. 

The work glove I put on to unload the 115 degree steel and the gloves my driver gave me.

     

     You've also started to think about what you need to do the kind of work you want to do and what would make it easier.  At this point you can go in a number of directions.  If your goal is to do primarily fabrication type work, you can slowly acquire tools that make that easier.  A better way to cut steel.  I use a 7x12 metal cutting band saw.  A lot of people chose to use a cut off saw.  The cut off saw is cheaper but I don't really love the fiber glass particles that it propels into the air.  The "dust" from grinding or cutting with a fiber glass disc does two things.  The metal dust falls to the floor because it's heavy, but the fiber glass particles fly around forever because they are light.  You really don't want those suckers in your lungs.  For me the extra expense of the band saw is worth it.  

This band saw is pretty close to mine.  I don't know what all the little plugs on the lower left are, but the rest is basically the same.  There are smaller band saws, and you can buy a portable band saw and a frame to convert it.  Harbor Freight has one too.  I don't know how the Harbor Freight saw works.  I had a smaller band saw and the problem with those is that the blade is small so it skates.  That means your cuts are not square.  If you are only cutting small stock a smaller band saw is fine or even a large shear.  If you are going to cut larger stock this band saw is a versatile choice.  Band saws are slower cutters so if you are doing production work you probably want a cold saw.  I think of that as a larger shop tool so I'm not going to go into it.  They are pricey but a really sweet way to cut steel.  But they are pricey. 

This is a chop saw.  The fiber glass disc wears away as you cut.  It also spews fiber glass all over your shop.  As I said, the fiber glass dust floats.  This cuts pretty fast, but it's really loud.  Wear lung and ear protection unless you don't want to be able to hear during your short life.  These are relatively cheap and worth every penny.  A lot of fab shops use them.  I really don't like them as you can probably tell. 

     You should also get a drill press.  I got mine at an auction and if that is possible, it's a great way to get tools.  You need to pay attention to the chuck size on any drill press you are looking at.  A 3/8" chuck will drive you insane in a pretty short period of time.  Get at least a 1/2".  It will be tricky on teeny holes but much better the rest of the time.  Also, I prefer a floor model.   

This beauty is exactly my drill press.  It's all cast iron.  It's really old, but it works.  I should probably replace the chuck.

I don't really know about the new drill presses, but this one looks pretty nice.  You are going to need to do some research on this. 

     The last really basic tool is a disc and/or belt grinder.  I have a couple of these.  If you are going to make knives, you will need to do some research to find the best grinders for that.  I like the one I have.  It has a quick change unit and mounts on a bench grinder so I can change the belts in a couple of seconds.  This is good if you are making knives, but even if you aren't making knives work will be easier with a disc or belt grinder or both.  There are so many of these and this is a really personal decision.  Figure out what you are going to do with it and pick the grinder that does that. 

 

This is a basic bench disc grinder.  I would get a 12" dia.  It's a pretty useful tool.

This is the quick change belt grinder I have.  It's a Multitool attachment kit.  You attach it to your bench grinder.  The belt is really easy to change so you can go from roughing to polishing very easily.  I'm sure it's not good enough if you are making knives professionally, but it works for my needs. 

     I have a lot of other tools because I do a lot of different types of metalwork.  Some I got because they were there and it seemed like a good idea.  This is why I have four anvils.  Nobody needs four anvils.  I also have a lathe.  I use it all the time.  I got by before I had it, but a guy was getting rid of it and I couldn't pass it up.  I'm happy I have it.  I had a little milling machine for a while.  It was too small so I traded it for something.  I don't actually remember what now.  I know it wasn't money.  I have a Hossfeld bender.  I used to use it more than I do now.  I have a shear.  I have a compressor.  Most tools after the basics are purchased or made for a specific job.  Then they become part of your arsenal.  You can do more because you have the tool to do more.  

This is a Hossfeld bender.  It is designed to bend steel cold.  It has a number of dies so you can bend different steel shapes into different steel shapes.  It's a pretty amazing tools actually. 

    There are a lot of ways to work with metal.  Each practice has its own set of tools.  Of course there is overlap.  As we go forward, I'm going to talk about the thing that I think most people are interested in first and then move on to some tools and techniques that I think are interesting too.  Next month I will begin to go into the tools necessary for blacksmithing which includes bladesmithing tools.  As I talk about tools I will also start to introduce techniques.  

     I hope you will practice your welding so that you are comfortable with that and are ready to use a hammer.  In the meantime make a feed table for your saw.  Make some horses.  Make a feed stand for long pieces on your disc grinder and drill press.  There are a lot of pieces of shop equipment that you will need and need to make for yourself.  This is the month for that.  Enjoy the learning process.

Such a fancy feed table.  Mine is so crude compared to this, but it works.  This is just an idea.  It doesn't need to be this fancy.  It doesn't need these rollers.  You can make rollers with solid bar and pipe.  It doesn't need to be height adjustable, but that is nice.  Take this opportunity to design what works for you.

You can buy this stand cheap at Harbor Freight.  They fall over.  They are too light.  Design a better version for yourself and make it. 

This is a horse.  It is not the horse you need to make for your shop, but it is a pretty cool horse.

Back to the heat...

Go have fun.

j

Can anyone tell me what art is?

This is a piece I made several years ago.

It's currently in a show at the Las Vegas City Hall Grand Gallery.

Sounds fancy no?

I had to name it for the show because ART has a name.

I call it "Pin-up Girl".

It's hung on a little nail on the wall in my house for years.

I whipped up the stand for the show because it had to sit on a pedestal.

Can it be classified as "fine art"?  

I have no idea.

     I feel like I'm a little off my game this month.  I guess it's because I'm annoyed which has distracted me.  I've been approached five (I'm going to be specific about this) times in the last week by people asking me to show my work.  I don't mind showing my work.  What annoys me is that all the people who approached me want to show "fine art".  It's not the people who have gotten under my skin. They are all lovely and generous people.  It's the idea.  I find the idea of ART a confusing trap.  What is art?  My evolving definition is, art is any work that makes a deliberate statement about the human condition. This isn't necessarily a universal definition. What is fine art?  I have no idea.  Why would what I do in any way qualify as fine art or not?  Again, I have no idea.  This is what comes of fuzzy definitions and marketing constructs.  

This is wall decor.  ???  Not mine

     Here's the thing.  For millennia people just made stuff.  They painted on cave walls, and made pots, and carved weapons from stone, and fashioned pelts into garments, and all the rest.  It was just part of what made us human.  Deep down, or for some of us right on the surface, we still have that drive to make stuff.  There are always needs to be met.  I wonder when we allowed ourselves to be separated from this basic human drive.  Also, why we value some forms of creativity more than others.


     A few years ago the musician Patti Smith wrote a book called "Just Kids".  In it she talks about her friendship  with the photographer Robert Mapplethorpe and being a young artist in New York.  My take from the book is that Patti is driven to create not by the need to create, or the desire to be an artist, but because she isn't capable of not creating.  She is fully in touch with the thing that makes her human.  She cannot live without creating.  This is probably a bit of an exaggeration, but it's a sentiment that I can fully relate to.  I feel adrift if I am not engaged in making things.  

     So?  Is it art?

     It's stuff and I am constantly working on my craft.  I am always challenging myself to do what I do better.  But just using the word craft reduces the value of my work.  Somehow in the 19th century, after the patronage system fell apart and ART was created as a marketing ploy, craft took a huge hit.  So now people who have not mastered a craft can be artists.  Yes, this is pissy of me.  I don't resent people who throw spit wads at plywood and call it art.  It may be art for all I know.  I just think that those of us who make functional things should get more respect.  Because I'm starting to think "fine art" means it can't have a function and it needs a way to have value.  And maybe that is why I am annoyed.  

Picasso.  I would hang it on my wall.

     Artists will often tell you that it's not about the money, but the whole idea of ART is designed to give financial value to work that has no intrinsic value.  This is fine with me.  I do think that many of those things that we see as art are important.  It is a way to communicate ideas, especially unpopular ideas.  However, much of what is called fine art is just pretty decor. It makes no statement,  deliberate or accidental,  about the human condition and often requires little skill. It's something that fills a space on the wall or in a niche.  It sells because most people don't want something in their home that never shuts up.  Something that constantly nags at them.  We want a peaceful environment.  I get that, but there seems to be an odd disconnect in these definitions.  And yes, this is about the money.  In a capitalist society, money equals respect.   Again back to why I'm annoyed.  I don't understand why someone who has little skill but makes colorful decor and calls it fine art gets more respect than someone who is highly skilled and makes useful objects that may or may not be called art.  Artisans need better marketers.  

Not Picasso.  I would not hang this on my wall, but ?????

     Anyway, now I either have to tell the nice people no or I have to decide which of the things I make constitute "fine art".  In any case, I need to let go of being annoyed.  I can't change the world.  Plus, it probably doesn't want to change and we all know how that usually works out.   My hunch is that I will just not show.  The fine art designation is too confusing for me.

Detail of one of my pieces.  It's a mirror.  Is it art  ?????

     Maybe if I whine long enough and loud enough someone will tell me that they want to show things made of metal where the metal has been moved by hammers and chisels.  I could do that show.  

Time to stop whining and get back to work.  
 j

The magic of muriatic acid

      I was working on a new coat hook design and working through what screws to include with the hook when I realized that there is no perfect screw that will work for every application.  This is sad. What follows is my attempt to help rectify this for the average person. Or perhaps the person with no fear and time on their hands.  

The coat hooks I'm working on.  These are made from scrap square bar. Slotted screws not hammered.  

Hammered Phillips head screws.  You can see how rough the slots are.

Hammered Phillips head screw. 

   


     I think if you are reading this you probably have a fantastically funky home and amazingly wonderful taste.  It follows that somewhere along the line you bought some forged hardware because ...hey...it's beautiful.  You may have gotten it online from one of the big players (or a small shop like mine) or at a festival or even from the local hardware store, but when you tried to install it you discovered that the screws aka mounting hardware didn't work for your situation.  They might have been the wrong length or the wrong type or maybe there wasn't any mounting hardware.  The supplier of the beautiful forged  hardware was no help, mostly because they are not me, so you went to the local hardware store and got some screws that would work.  Those new screws were perfect except they were bright silver and not the wonderful color of forged iron.  Rather than live with that you either returned the forged hardware in frustration or maybe you painted the screws, or if you are like me, you colored the screws with a Sharpie.  (This is not a paid endorsement.  I'm not opposed to paid endorsements so if you want to pay me to endorse something, drop me a note.)    I admit to using a Sharpie on occasion to fix a color issue on my hardware.  I'm helpful, not perfect.

     There are, however, a couple of other probably better solutions to the bright silver screw or bolt problem.  For this muriatic acid solution the screw has to be zinc plated.  I think it's also called hydrochloric acid.  It can't be stainless steel or nickel plated although you can darken both of those too.  I'll get to that later.  The easiest at home solution to darkening zinc plated screws is muriatic acid.  If you have a pool, you already have some.  If not, it's pretty cheap, comes by the gallon, and can definitely hurt you and possibly kill you if you aren't careful.  Also it's available at all the usual home improvement stores.  The important thing for this application is that it dissolves zinc. 

A really bad picture of zinc plated screws

      In order to get the zinc off the screws they need to be immersed in the muriatic acid.  The guy I learned this from used a piece of steel wire to dip the screws in the bottle of acid.  It only takes a couple of seconds.  I like the acid to remain fresh and I do this a lot so I usually pour a little acid in a plastic cup and drop the screws in.  For the samples in the pictures, I just put a little acid in the lid. 

 

On the left is the plated screw.  On the right is the screw with the plating removed by the acid.

     Once the plating is gone, rinse the acid off the screws and let them dry.  They will probably be a little rusty, but they will be the dull grey color of steel.  After that you can hold the head in the flame of your stove while holding the screw with a pair of pliers until the head turns black.  I would then dip the head in wax.  You can also oil it with kitchen oil.  Like seasoning a cast iron pan.  I had a buddy who seasoned his cast iron pans with Crisco ( Again, not a paid endorsement, for the buddy or Crisco). You can probably use that too.

 

     I think this is a fairly easy way to get a better look for forged hardware.  It doesn't give you a hammered look, but at least it's not bright silver on black.  

 

The plated screw.  The screw with the plating removed.  The screw heated in the stove and waxed.  My dirty hand.

     I'm trying to make hammered screws for my hooks.  I tried to find slotted screws at the big box home improvement stores.  They only have Phillips head.  Phillips head doesn't work that well when I hammer the head so when I have a big enough hardware order, I will add a box of slotted screws to supply with my hooks. I can clean up the slot after hammering much better than I can clean up a Phillips head.  Once I have the screws, I can list the hooks for sale.

    I should mention that there are a couple of caveats with this process.  You do not want to touch muriatic acid.  It's acid.  You also do not want to breath the fumes.  Do this process outside and don't stand over it.  I'm pretty sure breathing the fumes will mess you up.  Once you have removed the plating, the screws will rust. If you want to look at a list of safety tips, click here. 

    If you need blackened screws or bolts for a bathroom, you could try just holding a stainless steel head in the stove fire. This would also work for nickel plated screws.  Neither of those will rust as readily, but they are also more money.  Natural gas heat on the stove would probably be enough heat to make the head turn black.  It may take a bit longer. I don't know because I have a propane torch, and a forge and an oxy-acetylene rig. (google spell check wants to change this to foxy-acetylene.  What is foxy-acetylene?  Please tell me if you know unless it's going to scare me.)  I don't actually use the stove.  

   The best looking decor is consistent.  You want the mounting hardware to match the rest of the hardware.  This is a little step in that direction. 

    I hope this works for you without pain.  

    Now I need to get back to work.  Until next time

    j